Silkie Guide

a guide to fluffy love 

Consider getting these lovley creatures?
I have gatherd here some facts, myths and what to think about if you want to keep your Silkies happy and healthy, that are specfic to the Silkie.
 
When I write this I assume that you have read some basic about chickens or just have knowledge about chickens in general. These facts are specfic to Silkies.

DISCLAIMER: These facts are based on my own research and my experience from owning silkies. Every silkies are n indivudal and diffrent needs. These facts are to guide people who are intrested in buying silkies.

This Guide will go thrue:

  • How hardy they are for weather
  • Broodytime 
  • Sexing: Roosters vs Hens
  • Crests: Do you need to trim?
  • Bullied or Bullies?  
  • Silkie Roosters
  • Common afflictions & diseases 
  • Myth: Silkies dont roost  
  • Myth or not: More Protein in their diet
     
    Every section has a footnote about my experience in the topic.      

 

Hardy, just not an ornament

Due to ther looks the silkies often get missunderstood as "delicate". Only to be used and some sort of ornaments. In fact they are more hardy than they look like.

Many think the silkie will crumble at just the sign of cold. In fact that they can handle as much cold as any other chicken breed. 

The Silkie dont have big as combs as other breeds makes them less susceptible to frostbite.

Due to their fur like feathers the only thing they are more sensetive against is the wind. 

A wet silkie, in windy weathercould actully make your bird really sick.

In fact that its shown that silkies handle cold better than they handle the heat. Meaning they are more sensetive for heatstrokes.

My experience: My chickens where outside in -20 celsius one winter with no issues. Then I had the heatlamp on in the coop.
I have never seen mine silkies shown signs that they are cold (they have shown that they LIKE the heat from the heatlamp) but they where misarble during our hottest part of the summer. Panting and lifting their wings.

I do only turn on my heatlamp when it drops below -10 celsius. This is cause any chicken can get really sick if they aint used to the real cold.

Silkies love to sunbathe in proper warmth
Silkies love to sunbathe in proper warmth
Silkies love to be outside in the rain and get dirty
Silkies love to be outside in the rain and get dirty
Gigi is the only one that dosent mind the snow
Gigi is the only one that dosent mind the snow

Yes, they are broody, ALOT!

I usally tell people who are thinking about silkies: take what you think is alot of broodiness and multipliy it with 10. This is true!

Its rare for my nestboxes to be empty for weeks. Its even more rare for see all my 10 silkies togheter, since atleast one is always broody.
All you need is a good strategy to break them and a good routine to handle them while they are broody, so they can stay healthy.


How do you know that your hen is about to go broody?

  • She will be moody. You will you will get some growls, low and high. 
  • She will do what I call dragonstance. She will lower her neck and spread her wings to make her self look bigger.
  • She will pick up trash and lay it on her back (Most common is straw, but they use everything) 
  • The most obvious sign, she will clucking 

How do you know that your hen is broody?

I have sometimes tought one of my hens have gone broody but she was just grumpy being disturbed while laying. So reconsie these signs:

  • She will go what I call pancake mode, basicly she becomes flat. 
  • When you pet her she will give away a very diffrent growl and tuck her head almost against her belly. Fluffing her self up making her look bigger. 
  • It vary from hen to hen how often she will go broody but an average is about every third month. Then she will be broody about 21 days, have a break from laying eggs for about 2-8 weeks. Lay for about 2-4 weeks before she goes broody again.

My experience: I have started to noticed the early signs when Im about to have a broody hen. So when a fluffy ball lays in the nestboxes, I aint suprised

To make it as natural as possible for them (without hatching chicks) I make a note on the calender when they have laid 21 days (the time it takes for a chick to hatch). Day 22 I start breaking them from their broodiness.

For most my hens its enough just to close the hatch to the coop (Really important to male sure everyone who is laying has laid!) If I have to leave them I make my version of broody jail. Splitting my coop in 2. 
For most my hens this take between 1-3 days before their broody hormones are gone.
Some hens are more stubborn. My paint hen Bartok, are almost impossible to break. For her it aint enough to close the hatch to the coop. You need to seperate her from the hatch it self. Most effective on her is broody jail and usally takes 5-7 days before she gives up. 

They love to be broody in one nestbox even tho there is free ones
They love to be broody in one nestbox even tho there is free ones

Sexing

They will make you wait for it

Silkies are one of the hardest chicken breeds to sex. This is due to that they mature slower than other breeds. 

Many use the sentence "wait for an crow or an egg, this is the only way you will know".
I usally tell people who get silkie chicks, go with your gut feeling , when they wait for conformation. 

To explain how to sex you silkies Im gonna write down some notes how to tell the diffrence between a boy and a girl Silkie:

  • CREST: Hens have a more round crest, while the roosters does more look like they have a mullet from the 80s. This is due to the roosters devolp whats known as streamers. 
  • COMB: The Silkie hen basicly only have a slight bump as a comb. Some hens tho do get mistaken as rooster due to bigger combs (This is normal and a variationen to the indivudal) The Rooster have whats known as the mullberry comb. This is basicly a big brain looking thing, with a purple color. (while the hens mostly have the same color as their skin).
  • NECK FEATHERS: The rooster devolp whats known as hackle feathers. This basicly look like a mane on the rooster. They are more pointy in the edges. While the hens are more straight in the edges and look like normal feathers.
  • FEATHERY FEET: The rooster will have more and longer feathers on their feet. While the hens are basicly just fluffy.
    IMPORTANT NOTE: The feathery feet can appear on hens also (genetics), but its less common.  The roosters also have bigger feet, while most hens have tiny.
  • POSTURE: The hens have a more of a round form and stands closer to the ground. The rooster will have a more standing posture, similar to the Trex.


If you know what to look for you can start seeing sex around week 8 and forward (but some can take 1 year).
When can you start seeing the signs? 

  • CROW: On average they crow around week 15. (Some have had baby silkie rooster already crowing at week 3.)
  • STREAMERS: Also pops up on average around week 12-15. They startout basicly as just longer crest hairs.
  • HACKLE FEATHERS: This is the first sign I have seen on my roosters. They are easy to compare if you have a hen to compare too.
  • EGG: On avrage a Silkie lays egg around week 25, but it does vary alot from hen to hen. (Some girls can take a year!) 
  • GUTFEELING SIGNS: None of these are a conformation on sex but it can start the guessing game. As baby chicks the roosters will most often have the more standing posture already, they will also be bigger. Some baby roosters will already have the bigger and feathery feet. When the baby chicks start devolp crests. On some hens you can already see the more round shape.

Check out my detailed guide to sexing silkies

Felicia at 7 weeks, obvious pullet.
Felicia at 7 weeks, obvious pullet.
Hen comb
Hen comb

My experience: I have sexed 6 Silkies from a young age (I always got a second opinion from more experience also). Some are really obvious what they are going to be and some you will just have to wait for conformation.  

One of my first black silkie chick where so obvious that she was a girl already at 6 weeks. She was tiny, round in shape and the crest was already round even tho they still where pin feathers.

About a year later I hatched some chicks. To go thrue the experience. Two of them where obvious rooster early and later on.
Then there was my girl Azrael. She had no of the obvious sign of being a hen for the longest time. She is big for being a hen, she has VERY fluffy feat (I call them snowshoes!) and she had a very small crest for being a girl. As young I was told that she looked like a obvious rooster, but I had a gut feeling to just wait a bit longer to see. I was right she started to look more and more like a hen in the posture and no rooster signs as the hackle feathers and streamers didnt show up. I did not want to get my hopes up so I waited for conformation and one day Bartholomew was helping her in the nestboxes to lay her first egg.
Turned out she only needed a molt to get that poofy crest.
 
When did I know my roosters where roosters for sure? 

  • For Pete I knew for sure when the hackle feathers came. He started crowing early at 16 weeks and his comb came around week 20.
  • Bartholomew I bought as a sexed rooster but got told all the time that he looked "girly". His crow came at week 17.
  • For Gigi we still had doubts for the longest time. He looked really girly for the longest. He fooled many with girly looks. He had tho very standing up posture which got me thinking early, but they the streamers started to pop and week 20 his first crow came and comb around week 25. 
     
When did my hens start laying?
on avrage my hens have started around week 28 with Bartok being an expection at week 25 and Felicia at week 38.
Perfect example of hackle feathers. Looking almost like a hairstyle
Perfect example of hackle feathers. Looking almost like a hairstyle

Big crests

Yes they can see 

The american silkie is known of their huge crests and first people ask when they see them "can they really see?" Answer is it depends on individual. 
Some girls can go without a single trim and see perfectly fine, while others will actully get depressed when they cant see.

Most often its only the feathers under the eye thats in the way for the sight. In my bigger crested girls I do take more infront and above the eye, but I try to avoid this.

My experience: I use a scissors made for dogpaws to trim around my silkies eyes. These are shorter and have rounded edges. This makes it much easier to trim!

I have a girl that have had a small crest basicly her whole life. When suddenly after a hard molt she got a HUGE one. While I tought this crest was beautiful, I noitced something diffrent with her. She was basicly standing still, not jumping from the perch. I knew that hens can have trouble seeing with their crest and since she was not use to having a big crest. I came to a conclusion, she was depressed due to lack of sight. I tried this theory with putting her crest in a bun. She became a diffrent hen! 
Since some members of my crew like to eat hair ties, I gave a trim instead.  

Felicia have never mind her crest, I dont do much trimming on her
Felicia have never mind her crest, I dont do much trimming on her

They come in alot of diffrent looks

Satins, frizzle and naked necks 

We mostly see the most common silkie, looking like a ball of fluff. The genetics of the silkie have been bred in alot of diffrent variety. 

 
Satins
They still have the silkie genetics and shape but they have the normal feathering. The satins can have the most amazing feather patterns, compared to the normal silkie. The Satin exist also in nacked necks and frizzle.

Frizzle

They look like your typical duster. The most outstanding look of the frizzle is their bent feathers making them look all curly. 
Breeding the frizzle has one important note: breeding frizzle to frizzle will give the baby chick whats known as frazzle. While they look gorgeous at start its an unethical breeding, cause due to having 2 copies of the frizzle gene causes the feathers to break very easily.

Nacked Necks

That unqiue look of a vulture has come from generation of breeding that started with the breed Turken. 
They can come in two diffrent looks one called showgirl and the other stripper. What set them apart is how many sets of the nacked neck gene they have. You can see this with with the puff on their neck called a bowtie. The showgirl has the bowtie while the stripper does not.


Check out my article about naked necks

Ursula, one of my showgirls
Ursula, one of my showgirls

Silkies and other breeds

That fluff comes with an attitude 

One of the biggest myth I have learned from others is that silkies would be a bully vicitim for other breeds. What has been reported is silkies are often ones that bullies


My experience: I have not have my silkies with other breeds so I can not speak from own experience. The only thing I do know that the ladies have a big diva attitude.

Silkie Roosters
 
The boys "can" work togheter 

While every rooster is indivudal in its personality. Most of the silkie boys get along with other rooster very well.

They are also more easy going on the girls. There for the rule 1 rooster to 10 hens dosent apply so much to silkies. On a silkie rooster you can usally have 4 girls. 

Keep in mind every rooster is diffrent, while some work good on 4 girls. Another can be really rough on the girls. Also that not every personality clash togheter, so not every rooster can work togheter.

My experience: I have 3 rooster on 7 hens and this have worked to far for me cause of the personalities of the roosters.
I actully only planned on only having hens, but changed my mind in the last second. I learned how much one rooster protects the girls. So I got the best rooster ever my first rooster, Bartholomew.
But there is a thing such as chicken math...

With my first batch of chickens there was 3 little unsexed chicks. With these 3 little ball of cutness there was a spunky little boy that grew up to be my 2nd rooster Peewee Pete.
Then I tought I need some more girls so these 2 boys can be happy!  
Like said silkies can be really hard to sex. One of these "girls" fooled an experienced breeder. He was not a girl, he was another spunky little boy. I paniced, I loves this boy! but now I had 3 roosters. So I tought It aint a problem, until there is a problem.
And it has never been a problem. So came my 3d rooster Grigori Yefimovich Rasputin "Gigi".

These 3 boys work so well togheter cause of some few points:

Two of them never mates with a hen unless she squats.
All 3 respect the pecking order (Still there is fights but they are mild)
Gigi has such a docile personality. He has never challanged one of the other roosters.

Bart, Gigi and Pete
Bart, Gigi and Pete

Genetic Diseases 

That fluff comes with a downside  

Unfortantly silkies are prone to certain conditions and diseases. First they are very prone to vitamin deficincies, with the most common being vitamin E, which causes Wry neck. A disease which casues them to loose the control of the muscles in their neck.

With this in mind, you need to be extra meticulous how much vitamins your silkies get. Most feed stores have vitamin supplements for chickens, you can spread on their food or liquid form you can have in their water.

My experience: I had a routine before I got my chickens with my ducks already using supplement vitamins, but I stepped it up about abit when I learned about silkies need for more vitamins. 

I use a powder Vitamin on their feed which I sprinkle on at each serving. My feeling is that its easier to control how much vitamins they get from their feed rather using it in their water.

BUT I also give them liquid vitamins in their water once a week, just to make sure they get what they need. I copied this routine from my chicken mentor.

Since I also have a girl that have had wry neck twice, despite the extra vitamins. I do add one scoop of sunflowerseeds to their feed. Which is rich in Vitamim E and Selenium 

Read more about wry neck and the importance of vitamin E


Second is that they can be born with a sort of brain hernia, called Vaulted skull
Unfortantly this is very common that silkies are born with and it can vary how serious the hernia is.

Basicly its a hole in their skull where only skin protects the brain.
A chick born with mild to medium vaulted can have a real quality of life but they will be more sensetive to a bump on the nogging and they can devolp neurological problems. 
With the right breeding the amount of vaulted skulls born can be reduced.

My experience: I have a hen with mild vaulted skull. I bought her with purpose knowing she had this. i asked for a hen that was not breeding standard. While many breeders cull a chick directly with vaulted skulls. This breeder gives them a chance since they still can live long lives.  

She is 1,5 Year old at this point. Everytime she trips of high heights, get pecked on or even get mated. I do get a twist in my stomach, that she is going to get a brain inury. I'm very careful doing anything to her head, such a thing just putting a bowtie on her (yes I do that my chooks), instead I put it on her chest instead or just brushing her crest. 

A swedish article about Vaulted skulls

Wry neck cases gives a bent neck
Wry neck cases gives a bent neck
Its hard to see Vaulted Skull on a grown Silkie, but here wet you can see a slight bump.
Its hard to see Vaulted Skull on a grown Silkie, but here wet you can see a slight bump.

Roosting or not roosting

Not all silkies sleep in a pile

This is a big myth that silkies dont roost. You should always give them the optition to roost. Since silkies cant fly on the same way as other chickens they have a harder time to get to a high perch. When they cant get to the perch they sleep in a pile.

You can either give them a perch in a lower height or you can build it like a ladder or stairs like I have done.
You might have to teach them to use the perch (if they still prefers the pile after this, let them). How you teach them os basicly put them on the perch at bedtime for a few days.   
Every silkie is going to be diffrent. Some seem to prefer to sleep in a pile, while others really do it the old fashion way and roost.


My experience: When I was new to silkies (and chickens) I got the recomendation to atleast put in one low perch, but they where most likley going to sleep in a pile on the floor.
BUT I did put them on the perch for 2 days at bedtime and soon everyone was using it.
It was not for long before my rooster Bart starting stairing up on the wallpapper and seeming anxious. I read the behavior as "Perhaps he wants to roost higher". I put in a higher roost bar and yes, he wanted to roost higher.
One after another he showed the behavior and I put in more and more roosting bars until the highest point. This way the bars formed like a ladder which they now jump up on one at the time until the reach the higher bars. 

The silkies who came after I have done the same teaching routine and it went smoothly. They do want to sleep withe others.

With the right set up, Silkies are happy to roost.
With the right set up, Silkies are happy to roost.

Myth: High Protein Diet

Not a proven fact 

I take this fact as last since this is more of a rumour in the silkie community and not a proven fact, that is that silkies need higher protein. This rumour/myth has caused more harm than good and takes away the focus from whats important in a silkie diet, nutrion dense food. Lay your focus on the vitamins! To much protein in a bird diet can cause gout and joint problems.

Most layer feed has 15% protein this is plenty enough. Recomendation is not to go over 20%. This gives you 5% to give protein in another form, which also give your silkies variation in feed and more vitamins.

Info about Gout in Poultry 

My experience: I used to believe in this myth. Until I joined the group "Crossbeak and Special Needs" the admins of this group with high knowledge showed me the myth and harm to much protein can do. Only thing I add now in form of protein is 1/2dl sunflowerseeds for the vitamin E and during molting season Verm-X Poultry Zest.

Fidget is broody alot so she is very light in weight but she stays healthy!
Fidget is broody alot so she is very light in weight but she stays healthy!
I wrote this post to spread facts that I my self had a hard time finding. 
This post is ment ro give you some basic knowledge to know if silkies are the right breed for you, preparing you for their arrival or if you just want some more basic facts about Silkie care.


I hope you found it useful reading!